James Arthur M., Bradley Kynard, Taylor Ryan Rivers, Twon Marcel Pope, and Omar Stewart Photo by Lois Tema

But the wings are ultimately only a distraction for Cordell, serving perhaps to take his mind off an impending divorce with his wife in order to more completely commit to his new partner, Dwayne (James Arthur M.), a hotel manager and mother hen to this house full of friends that includes the flamboyant Isom (Omar Stewart), dressed in a red mesh crop top that highlights his gym-toned physique, and Big Charles (Twon Marcel Pope), who is focused more on the ballgame on TV than the goings-on in the kitchen.

Cordell is new to the group, having relocated from St. Louis to live with Dwayne–but he has not shared that news with the family back home. (Although it's clear he's at least partly out of the closet, as his wife is taking everything in the divorce and his sons resent him, perhaps for not living up to a perceived ideal of Black masculinity.) He's not exactly a fish out of water, but he has yet to find employment, and he is still working on his role within Dwayne's tight-knit group of friends.

Things become even more complicated–and the stakes finally begin to rise–when Dwayne's former brother-in-law (and drug dealer and occasional stick-up artist), TJ (Kennzeil Love), shows up looking for his wayward son, EJ (Taylor Ryan Rivers). TJ's wife, Dwayne's sister, apparently had significant mental health issues and died when police responded to Dwayne's request for a wellness check and were overzealous in their restraint. Having made the call, Dwayne carries a heavy load of guilt over her death, even though he wasn't the one who sat on her neck, causing her death. Soon after TJ leaves, EJ shows up, looking for a place to stay. Ostensibly for a single night, but the two garbage bags filled with his clothes and few belongings send a different message.

All this drama, however, is at first coated in a veneer of bitchy quips and good-natured tension as Cordell tries to marshal his crew of conscripted sous chefs into finishing the preparations for the big contest the next day. Cordell is not an easy taskmaster, as he has very specific–almost to the level of obsessive–ideas of how the wings are to be prepared. For instance, the marinade must be stirred constantly, counterclockwise, for five hours, with a dash of spice after every twelfth revolution. He has also obtained a jar of peli peli, a super-hot chili that make jalapeños seem as bland as a bowl of white rice. According to Cordell, who uses only a pinch of the stuff in his recipe, it's a heat that doesn't hit right away, but once it kicks in, it's fierce. (When Isom dumps the whole jar of the stuff into the marinade and Dwayne tests one of the resulting uber-spicy wings, it leads to one of the funniest scenes in the play.)

Like the peli peli spice, The Hot Wing King kind of sneaks up on you. At first it seems like a frivolous bit of fluff, with the men simply seeming to enjoy each other's company even as they joust and throw a bit of shade. But as the play continues, especially in Act Two, the stakes get raised again and again, and the hot wing contest turns into the least important thing about the play.

In addition to Katori Hall's nicely structured text (and cunningly conceived dramatic arc), The Hot Wing King benefits from stellar direction from ShawnJ, and a nicely balanced cast, seamlessly aligned through each scene. Kynard plays Cordell with a terrific balance of confidence and vulnerability. He's new to this group (which he calls "The New Wing Order"), and though he seems to be adjusting well to his new circle of friends, Kynard exhibits just a touch of hesitation to his character, which serves the role nicely. The rest of ShawnJ's cast do excellent work, as well. The chemistry between Cordell and James Arthur M.'s Dwayne is well-developed, and playwright Hall has imbued their interactions with just the right balance of affection and tension. It all takes place in a wonderfully packed set by Matt Owens that manages to simulate a kitchen, living room, bedroom, and patio without seeming overstuffed.

Like those wings, I was a little slow to warm to The Hot Wing King, but by the end of the two hours (with intermission), I was hungry for more.

The Hot Wing King runs through October 19, 2025, at New Conservatory Theatre Center, Decker Theatre, 25 Van Ness Avenue, San Francisco CA. Performances are Wednesdays-Thursdays at 7:30pm, Fridays and Saturdays at 8:00pm and Sundays at 2:00pm. Tickets are $43.50-$65.50. For tickets and information, please visit NCTCSF.org or call 415-861-8972.